What life is like in winter on an island that empties out

Life in Kefalonia during the winter months is an experience full of contrasts. From the intense vibrancy and cosmopolitan atmosphere of summer, the island plunges into calm and, for many, isolation. Residents from different parts of the island describe how they experience their daily lives in winter, the challenges and opportunities that arise during the winter period. Their testimonies reveal a place that changes dramatically, but which at the same time holds within it the possibility of rebirth.

A desolation that weighs heavily

“In winter, Kefalonia empties out,” says Mr. Nikos Andreatos, president of the Local Community of Markopoulo, who is now 65 years old and has never left his village, Katelios. “Most locals leave for Athens in winter, leaving behind a place that seems abandoned. When they return in summer for the season, they want everything ready: clean streets, well-tended estates. But who will do it? Workers are few and the municipality does what it can with the staff it has.” Ioannis Chounos, president of the Community of Mavrata, who is now 61 years old and lives permanently in Mavrata, shares the concern for the island’s future: “It saddens me that the island is emptying out. Young people leave in winter, preferring large cities and returning in summer for holidays and the season. It used to have more people, and that was evident in daily life.” At the same time, Mr. Chounos, who has grown up with this abrupt population change on the island, explains that he has gotten used to it and that it is most difficult for young people, while for older people, the prevailing calm is not a particular annoyance. “For six months in summer, there are a lot of people. At some point, however, you want your peace and quiet,” he characteristically states.

Eleni Paximada, 26, who has been working as a substitute kindergarten teacher in Tuliata of Erisos for two years, conveys the impression she has formed that “locals don't go out in winter. Most work seasonal jobs in summer and rest at home in winter,” while revealing that at first she found it difficult to adapt to island life, coming from Thessaloniki. “I came to Kefalonia exclusively for professional reasons. At first, I found it difficult to adapt. The area where I live has several deficiencies. Last year I lived in a village with no social life at all,” she said, speaking to thekefalonianglobe.gr.

Dimitra Kokkinopoulou, 39, also a substitute kindergarten teacher, records the practical difficulties of going out for entertainment in winter, saying that in Fiskardo, where she lives, there is no restaurant or café open in winter. Therefore, going out requires using a car and traveling to Argostoli, Agia Efimia, or Sami, which is not always easy as “the route, especially during winter nights, can become dangerous as there is fog, animals that may jump out, and you need to drive down the mountain.”

The flight of youth and social isolation

Social life on the island in winter is limited, especially for young people. “My children, when they grow up, will certainly leave, at least to study,” says educator Ms. Foivi Rizou, a resident of Kouvalata and secretary of the Anakara Society for Nature and Culture of Lixouri Paliki. “I came here from another area and at first, life on the island was exciting. Nature, freedom, and the opportunities to get involved in various activities attracted me. However, if I were younger and free, I might not stay today,” she underlines.

“Personally, when I used to go to bars, I noticed that if there were 40 people, 30 were teachers. This says a lot about the dynamics of the island,” notes Ms. Paximada. “It's no coincidence that younger people leave Kefalonia and don't return,” she adds, emphasizing the lack of variety in social groups and activities, which contributes to the gradual departure of young people from the island.

Mr. Andreatos adds that the limited social options affect not only the young but also the old. “Daily life in winter is limited. Once a week I go with my wife to a tavern. The evenings are difficult. The villages around here have 40-50 people, and the cafes are closed. We gather at homes, where we can spend a few hours together.”

Winter activities chosen by residents

Daily life in Kefalonia during winter is often limited to domestic activities and essential travel. “Here, we go from house to house for a walk. The shops in Fiskardo are closed,” says Ms. Vasiliki Vasilatou, a mother of two children who lives in her hometown, Tuliata. “If you want to go out, you have to go to Argostoli or Sami. But with children, it's not always easy.”

“If I didn't have the children, I believe I could go to Argostoli every Saturday,” says Ms. Vasilatou. “My friends go to the gym there. It's difficult, you and the child get stressed when you have to take them for their activities in Argostoli, but you do it. At the end of the day, it's also up to us to find solutions to break the routine.”

Ms. Kokkinopoulou finds refuge in nature. “Walks on the trails, fishing, and strolls are my main activities. The nature of Kefalonia is amazing and has a therapeutic effect. But, beyond that, the options are limited,” she emphasizes.

On the other hand, Ms. Paximada notes that winter offers time for self-reflection. “I learned to appreciate the calm and serenity that the island offers. I try to keep myself creatively engaged. I started working with clay and sculpture, I read literary books, however, I find it difficult because I am a social person and I miss extroversion.”

Activities and the role of the Anakara Society

 

For many, cultural and sports activities are the only escape from routine. In Lixouri, the Anakara Society offers a rich range of activities that bring life to the area. “Our association was founded three years ago and has developed into a center of cultural creation,” says Foivi Rizou. “We offer weaving, creative writing, Pilates, and yoga workshops, and we also have theatrical improvisation and theatrical play sections for children. We screen films twice a month, and our theater group stages performances in summer.”

The association is mainly supported by volunteers and participants, while the municipality provides support by making space and sound coverage available for events. “About 200 people participate every week, from preschool children to elderly people,” she says, while emphasizing that participants tell her they are very happy to have found a creative activity for their evenings.

Infrastructure problems and the need for change

The lack of basic infrastructure is one of the main reasons why life on the island in winter is difficult. “In our area, we don't even have a playground or medical support beyond a private doctor,” emphasizes Vasilatou. “If such infrastructure existed, life would be easier,” explains Ms. Vasilatou. At the same time, she places great emphasis on the island's potential to become a year-round tourist destination. “We could also develop winter tourism, so that shops remain open for all 12 months, the potential exists, provided the state gets involved and takes care of it.”

Ms. Paximada also talks about the issue of easier access to medical services and pharmaceutical products. “For me, the most important problem is the lack of pharmacies. In the area where I live, there is only one pharmacy, in Fiskardo, and there is no other close by. It serves many villages, but it operates on local hours: closed on weekends and open only from morning until noon on weekdays. It has happened to me on a Saturday night that I needed medicine, and there was no available option nearby.” This lack creates intense insecurity among residents, especially in emergencies.

In addition, the 26-year-old substitute kindergarten teacher, who lives in Tuliata, raises the issue of transportation, saying that “public transport is almost non-existent. Without a car, it is impossible to get around. “For example, the line connecting the northern area with Argostoli only runs once a week, every Wednesday at 06:00 in the morning, with a return at 13:00.”

A sense of stagnation and the need for evolution

Despite the difficulties, the residents of Kefalonia believe that the island has potential. “Kefalonia can offer more, but it relies on the quick money of tourism,” says Vasilatou. “If the local authorities were more seriously involved in development, the island could have tourism all year round.”

“It's a big complaint of mine that Kefalonia, while being such a large island with many possibilities, remains stagnant and rests on tourism,” emphasizes Paximada. “Locals have adjusted their lives around the season, and this is evident everywhere. As soon as summer ends, everything closes, and the needs of permanent residents take a back seat,” she states.

“The number one thing I would like to change is to have some shops open all year round,” argues Ms. Paximada. “I would open at least half of the shops in Fiskardo, because now they are all closed in winter. The lack of options limits social life.”

Furthermore, in the context of attracting new people, Mr. Andreatos said that “I would suggest making the procedures for building easier. Opportunities must be given for the creation of small family businesses so that young people have work and the agricultural sector can develop.”

At the same time, Ms. Dimitra Kokkinopoulou, as a kindergarten teacher, emphasizes that Kefalonia is clearly an ideal environment for raising children, although in summer they grow up almost autonomously, as their parents work. In winter, however, school is their entertainment and the opportunity they have to socialize,” while Ms. Foivi Rizou concludes by saying that “the island as a small place may seem boring, but if there is will and initiative, you can create. Lixouri has potential, and we, through the association, try to exploit these possibilities.”

Life in Kefalonia in winter is full of challenges, but also opportunities for those who want to invest in the power of the local community. With proper support, better infrastructure, and initiatives, the island can offer a sustainable and creative daily life, preserving its cultural heritage and natural beauty.