Life in Kefalonia during the winter months is an experience full of contrasts. From the vibrant energy and cosmopolitan feel of summer, the island sinks into calmness and, for many, isolation. Residents from different parts of the island describe how they experience their daily lives in winter, the challenges they face, and the opportunities that emerge during the winter season. Their accounts reveal a place that changes dramatically but still holds the potential for renewal.
A Solitude that Weighs Heavily
"In winter, Kefalonia empties out," says Mr. Nikos Andreatos, president of the Local Community of Markopoulo, who is 65 years old and has never left his village, Katelios. "Most locals leave in winter for Athens, leaving behind a place that feels abandoned. When they return in the summer, they want everything ready: clean roads, well-maintained fields. But who will take care of it all? Workers are few, and the municipality does what it can with the staff available.” Ioannis Hounos, president of the Mavrata Community, who is 61 years old and lives permanently in Mavrata, shares the concern for the island's future: "It saddens me that the island empties out. Young people leave in winter, preferring big cities, and come back in the summer for vacations and seasonal work. It used to have more people, and you could feel that in daily life." At the same time, Mr. Hounos, who has grown up with this sharp population change on the island, explains that he has become accustomed to it and that the peace isn’t much of a bother for the older residents, while it’s more difficult for the younger ones. “For six months in the summer, there are plenty of people. Eventually, though, you want your peace,” he says.
Η Ελένη Παξιμαδά, 26 ετών, που εργάζεται εδώ και δύο χρόνια ως αναπληρώτρια νηπιαγωγός στα Τουλιάτα της Ερισσού, μεταφέρει την εικόνα που έχει σχηματίσει πως «οι ντόπιοι τον χειμώνα δεν βγαίνουν. Οι περισσότεροι δουλεύουν σεζόν το καλοκαίρι και τον χειμώνα ξεκουράζονται στο σπίτι τους», ενώ αποκαλύπτει πως στην αρχή δυσκολεύτηκε να προσαρμοστεί στη ζωή του νησιού ούσα από τη Θεσσαλονίκη. «Ήρθα στην Κεφαλονιά αποκλειστικά για επαγγελματικούς λόγους. Στην αρχή δυσκολεύτηκα να προσαρμοστώ. Η περιοχή όπου μένω έχει αρκετές ελλείψεις. Πέρσι έμενα σε ένα χωριό χωρίς καθόλου κοινωνική ζωή», ανέφερε η ίδια μιλώντας στο thekefalonianglobe.gr.
Dimitra Kokkinopoulou, 39, also a substitute kindergarten teacher, notes the practical difficulties of going out in winter. In Fiskardo, where she lives, there is no open restaurant or cafe in winter. So, going out requires a car trip to Argostoli, Agia Efimia, or Sami, which isn’t always easy since “the drive can be dangerous at night during the winter due to fog, animals that may suddenly appear, and the mountain descent,” she adds.
The Youth Exodus and Social Isolation
Social life on the island in winter is limited, especially for young people. “My kids, when they grow up, will definitely leave, at least to study,” says teacher Phoebe Rizou , a resident of Kouvalata and secretary of the Lixouri Society for Nature and Culture, Anakara Society . “I came here from another area, and at first, island life was exciting. Nature, freedom, and the opportunities to get involved in various activities drew me in. However, if I were younger and single, I might not stay now,” she says.
"When I used to go to bars, I noticed that if there were 40 people, 30 were teachers. That says a lot about the island's demographic,” notes Paximada. "It's no coincidence that young people leave Kefalonia and don’t return," she adds, highlighting the lack of variety in social groups and activities, which contributes to the gradual departure of young people from the island.
Mr. Andreatos adds that the limited social options affect not only the young but also the older residents. “Everyday life in winter is limited. Once a week, my wife and I go to a tavern. Evenings are tough. The villages here have 40-50 people, and the cafes are closed. We gather in homes to spend a few hours together."
Winter Activities Chosen by Residents
Daily life in Kefalonia in winter is often limited to household tasks and essential trips. "We go from house to house for a visit. The shops in Fiskardo are closed," says Vasiliki Vasilatou, a mother of two who lives in her hometown, Touliata. "If you want to go out, you have to go to Argostoli or Sami. But with kids, it's not always easy.”
“If I didn’t have the kids, I think I’d go to Argostoli every Saturday,” Vasilatou adds. “My friends go to the gym there. It’s hard; you struggle with your child when you have to take them to activities in Argostoli, but you do it. At the end of the day, it’s up to us to find ways to break the routine.”
Kokkinopoulou finds solace in nature. “Walking on trails, fishing, and going on excursions are my main activities. Kefalonia’s nature is stunning and therapeutic. But beyond that, the choices are limited,” she emphasizes.
Paximada adds that winter offers time for introspection. “I learned to appreciate the peace and tranquility the island offers. I try to keep myself creatively engaged. I started working with clay and sculpture, I read literature, but it’s hard because I’m a social person, and I miss social interaction.”
Activities and Role of the Anakara Society
For many, cultural and sports activities provide the only escape from routine. In Lixouri, the Anakara Society offers a rich range of activities that bring life to the area. “Our association was founded three years ago and has evolved into a center for cultural creativity,” says Phoebe Rizou. “We offer weaving workshops, creative writing, Pilates and yoga, as well as improvisational theater and theater play for children. Twice a month, we screen films, and our theater group puts on performances in the summer.”
The society relies mainly on volunteers and participants, while the municipality provides support with space and sound for events. “Around 200 people participate every week, from preschoolers to seniors,” she says, adding that participants are thrilled to have found creative activities for their afternoons.
Infrastructure Problems and the Need for Change
The lack of basic infrastructure is one of the main reasons life on the island in winter is challenging. “In our area, we don’t even have a playground or medical support, except for a private doctor,” Vasilatou emphasizes. “If there were such infrastructure, life would be easier,” she explains. At the same time, she highlights the potential for year-round tourism: “We could also develop winter tourism so that shops remain open for 12 months. There is potential if the government takes action.”
Paximada also addresses the issue of limited access to medical services and pharmaceuticals. “For me, the biggest problem is the lack of pharmacies. In my area, there’s only one pharmacy in Fiskardo, and there’s no other nearby. It serves many villages, but it operates with local hours: closed on weekends and only open in the morning on weekdays. Once, on a Saturday night, I needed medicine, and there was no available option nearby.” This lack creates insecurity among residents, especially in emergencies.
Additionally, the 26-year-old substitute kindergarten teacher who lives in Touliata points to the issue of transportation, saying, “Transportation is almost non-existent. Without a car, it’s impossible to get around. For example, the route connecting the northern area to Argostoli only runs once a week, every Wednesday at 6:00 am, with a return at 1:00 pm.”
A Sense of Stagnation and the Need for Development
Despite the difficulties, Kefalonia residents believe the island has potential. “Kefalonia can offer more, but it relies on the quick money from tourism,” Vasilatou says. “If local authorities took development more seriously, the island could have year-round tourism.”
“I’m very disappointed that Kefalonia, despite being such a large island with so much potential, remains stagnant and relies on tourism,” Paximada notes. “Locals have adapted their lives around the season, and it shows everywhere. As soon as summer ends, everything closes, and the needs of permanent residents come second.”
“The number one thing I’d like to change is to have some shops open year-round,” says Paximada. “I would open at least half of the shops in Fiskardo because now, everything is closed in winter. The lack of options limits social life.”
Andreatos suggests simplifying processes to make it easier for people to build. “Opportunities need to be provided for the creation of small family businesses so that young people have work, and the agricultural sector can develop.”
Meanwhile, Kokkinopoulou, a kindergarten teacher, notes that Kefalonia is clearly an ideal environment for raising children, even though they grow almost autonomously in summer since their parents are working. “In winter, though, school is their entertainment and their chance to socialize,” while Rizou concludes by saying, “The island, as a small place, can seem boring, but with will and initiative, you can create. Lixouri has potential, and through our society, we try to make the most of it.”
Life in Kefalonia during winter is full of challenges but also offers opportunities for those who wish to invest in the strength of the local community. With proper support, better infrastructure, and initiatives, the island can offer a sustainable and creative daily life, keeping its cultural heritage and natural beauty alive.
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