Ithaca, the island of Odysseus, is renowned for its unparalleled beauty and mythical character. During the summer, its shores are filled with tourists enchanted by the azure sea and the serene landscapes. But what happens when the summer lights fade? What remains when the island falls into a winter slumber, far from the echoes of tourists and the hustle and bustle of busy streets?
Winter in Ithaca is a season of deep tranquility, almost mystical in nature. It’s a time when the island returns to its own rhythm, revealing a different world, full of challenges and opportunities. Walking through the narrow streets of Vathy in December, life feels slower, quieter, but not without its daily spark.
From Crowds to... Isolation
Winter in Ithaca means isolation. Most shops have shut their doors. The tourist businesses that bring the island to life from April to October now fall silent. In Vathy, only two tavernas remain open for those who wish to dine out. Most residents spend their time at home or in small gatherings, away from the summer frenzy, while many invest their free hours in creative activities through local clubs or associations (read here) . We spoke to some of the island’s residents, sharing life on Ithaca through their eyes after the summer ends.
The key is seeing the glass half-full, as Mr. Christos Manolopoulos, who participates in many island activities and is particularly active, says: “I keep busy with hunting, fishing, and the sports club ‘Proodos Ithakis.’” Indeed, Ithaca’s nature is a haven. “Winter in Ithaca is like a playground for those who love peace and nature,” says Mr. George Lillas, owner of the island's only diving center.
“Of course, if the weather permits, I’ll go out for a coffee or drink at one of the few places that stay open in the winter,” adds Mr. Manolopoulos, praising those businesses for supporting the locals’ social life during the off-season. “Those who keep their shops open are permanent residents, and I consider them very professional; they, too, bear the brunt during these months. Many of these places, however, don’t open on weekdays.”
Mr. Alexandros Taflampas also has a full schedule. He is one of the five lawyers on the island and has served as a municipal councilor for three decades. "We have plenty of work as lawyers, primarily dealing with property registries, as the island is known to attract significant interest in property sales. However, the majority of residents are involved in tourism, so during the winter, they are left without work," he explains.
The Challenges of Winter & Acts of Solidarity
"Winter in Ithaca is harsh," says Mr. Telemachos Gavanozis, referring to, among other things, difficulties in transportation and public transit, as well as the lack of dining establishments, which impacts social life.
Mr. Manolopoulos , who has been working in the island’s police force since 1988, explains: “There are nine of us police officers in Vathy covering the entire island. We don’t have serious incidents—just a few disturbances and some traffic accidents, especially during the summer months. Criminal activities are extremely rare. Transportation is limited, and if something urgent arises, transfer to Kefalonia is the only solution.” Overall, concerns about healthcare rank high among the residents’ priorities.
As for the island’s younger residents, the locals have made provisions by organizing various athletic and recreational activities for children. However, the key issue here is how many children will remain on the island in the coming years. "A child can do a lot here—they can engage in sports, learn to dance, or join the theater and cinema group, as long as they live in Vathy. For those in Northern Ithaca, things are more challenging. We have tutoring centers and teachers on the island, but some specialties are missing. The teachers on the island are quite a few, with 90% being locals who have permanently settled here. We have two primary schools—Vathy has a good number of students, but in Stavros, the numbers are gradually declining," explains Mr. Taflampas.
If Something Stands Out in Ithaca During Winter, It’s the Sense of Community!
The associations, clubs, and various initiatives across the island are impressive not only in number but also in the emotional warmth of the locals. However, equally significant—if not more so—is the solidarity among residents.
Concerns about healthcare issues are intense and justified, considering the island has only one health center. In emergencies, patients must be transferred by a Coast Guard ambulance boat to the hospital in Kefalonia. For all other non-urgent cases, residents must rely on transport such as the ferry, with all the complications this entails during the winter months. This issue became particularly apparent during the economic crisis, leading to the creation of a social clinic aimed at easing the residents’ difficulties and financial burdens by providing essential medical services free of charge. As explained by Ms. Ourania Louka, Deputy Mayor of Social Policy and Welfare in Ithaca and a doctor in charge of the Social Clinic, “As a municipality, we wanted to create a volunteer-based structure to bring doctors to the island and cover their expenses. The social clinic started in 2016 to meet the needs of economically disadvantaged residents. Essentially, we reinforce the Health Center with volunteer actions.” The clinic is equipped with medical beds and portable devices, such as stethoscopes and microscopes. Visiting doctors of various specialties—volunteers—bring their own medical tools. The clinic's operations are supported by 14 local volunteers.
Ms. Louka also mentioned that beyond doctor visits, first-aid training is conducted on the island by EKAV (National Emergency Center) teams. Remarkably, all villages in Ithaca have been equipped with portable defibrillators. The municipality’s social sensitivity doesn’t stop at healthcare. There is also a social grocery store on the island to assist those living below the poverty line. “The municipality steps in wherever it can to support its residents. Currently, we are assisting 30 households. Applications are renewed every six months. The aid includes everything from household cleaning supplies to food, milk, oil, legumes, pasta, shampoo, and meat—everything a family might need to sustain itself. In any case, we must emphasize that this is help; unfortunately, it does not solve their livelihood problems,” Ms. Louka notes.
Business Opportunities and the Future of Ithaca
Work is limited during the winter as Ithaca’s economy, according to locals, is primarily tourism-based. As a result, most residents are left without employment and turn to agricultural activities, while many choose to leave the island during the winter months and return in summer.
However, there are always exceptions—those who cannot part with the island. For example, Mr. Lillas, who left Ithaca years ago for studies, decided to return and start a business by opening a diving center. “I was born in Vathy, left for studies, and came back at 28. From the moment I left, I planned to return to Ithaca. When I came up with the idea for diving, I decided to come back. The truth is, to succeed in Ithaca, it helps a lot to be a local. For someone to come and invest here is difficult but not impossible. Today, at 40, I am happy with my choice. To succeed in Ithaca, it helps to be a local. For someone from another place to come and invest here is challenging but achievable. I’d say that anyone considering returning to the island must have a plan. The island needs doctors and engineers, and those who came from other places have done well.”
Nevertheless, most residents conveyed that younger generations choose urban centers. “The island cannot retain young people. As someone who is close to the youth, I see that most kids just want to finish high school and leave for studies. There are very few young people. The island is purely tourism-based. From late April to late October, anyone can find work. But the rest of the year, Ithaca is ‘dead.’ Those who stay work as builders, plumbers, electricians, or with olives and farming,” explains Mr. Manolopoulos.
One notable obstacle for anyone considering moving to Ithaca is the lack of housing. “There are no houses available, and it’s hard to find a place to rent. If a house is in good condition, it’s rented out as an Airbnb,” Mr. Lillas points out.
Naturally, in this earthly paradise of the Ionian Sea, opportunities will always emerge for those who wish to seize them. “There are opportunities on the island for young people, as long as they are willing,” says Ms. Ourania Mavromati, a permanent resident of Vathy. “Of course, for those with a university education, it is more challenging to find something in their field. Nevertheless, it is a developing place, and there are certainly prospects.” A noteworthy example is the decision of the children of a permanent island resident who, as she explains, “My children chose to stay on the island permanently, fully aware of their choice. They find outlets and interests. The truth is that there is a serious and organized effort by the municipality and local organizations to enrich life during the winter.”
Finally, Mr. Gavanozis praises Ithaca but also sets conditions for someone to appreciate its beauty and live there. “If someone is aware of what they are getting into and is older than 18, then yes, they can live here. It’s an ideal place for families and children, offering a calm and healthy environment.”
A Balance of Contrasts
Winter in Ithaca is a season of contrasts. On one hand, there is peace, safety, and a sense of community. On the other hand, there are challenges, such as isolation, insufficient infrastructure, and a lack of social interaction.
However, amidst the silence of winter, Ithaca finds its own rhythm. It is a season of self-discovery, where residents grow closer to nature and to one another. For those who stay, Ithaca is not just a place to live; it is a home that requires devotion but rewards with its beauty and authenticity.
Ithaca gave you the marvelous journey.
Without her, you would not have set out.
She has nothing left to give you now.
And if you find her poor, Ithaca has not deceived you.
Wise as you have become, with so much experience,
you must already have understood what Ithacas mean.
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